Escape from Varanasi

Sent: Saturday, July 14, 2001 2:18 AM

As I promised, this post comes a little closer on the heels of the
last one, and will be more brief...

I write now from the town of Rishikesh at the foot of the Himalyas
where I am staying for my final two weeks in India.  I have taken up
residence at an ashram here and have six hours of class a day
covering various forms of yoga, meditation, and Indian philosophy. 
Although my hope was to also catch some hikes in the forested hills I
fear somewhat the imprisonment of the monsoons.  Along with the mist
that rises off the Ganges to shroud the valley, the rains have
brought knee-high flooding through some of the streets here and the
trails may be in similar condition.  No worries, though.  The
courses, my new Indian flute, and my book stack, along with the
exceptionally cool travellers and yogis this place seems to draw,
will no doubt keep me occupied.

I arrived here this morning on an express (average speed: 40 km/h)
train from Varanasi.  Despite my immersion in Salman Rushdie's
eloquently magical and chaotic prose, I fear I don't possess an
adequate gift with words to describe that place.  India as a whole is
a place gone mad with mysticism, image, ritual, and pilgrimage, and
Varanasi is no less than its holiest city.  Poised on the Ganges
river, it is known by travellers as the city of learning and burning,
visited for its music courses as well as the eternal fires that
cremate corpses before their descent into the river and eternal
salvation. 

Whether you believe it holy or not, the Ganges in Varanasi is
hypnotizing; the swirling multidirectional waves and eddies speak of
horrific treasures beneath the surface and the occasional shrouded
corpse floating by lends to its atmosphere of mystery.  It is as if
the very subconscious of India lay frothing outside my window.  Every
morning I awoke in my basement dungeon at the Vishnu Rest House,
sweeping crickets and roaches into the river only meters from my
room, wondering if the coming rains would wash me away with the
babies, pregnant women, saddhus, and lepers who float down the river
unburned.  Despite the pleas of devout Hindus on my train ride to the
holy city, I never bathed in the Ganges, nor touched its waters.  The
bacterial count 250,000 times the WHO limit was my own holy ward.

My hope in visiting this mad place was to study Indian flute and
yoga, but in the end I admit that I chickened out.  The narrow alleys
full of dung, the constant barrage of beggars, pushers, hustlers,
touts, and saddhus unsettled my mind too much for calm study.  Now
that I am among slightly wider streets and hills, with but one lone
cricket in my bedroom, my state of mind is much improved.  Someday I
will go back to Varanasi, this time a bit more prepared, perhaps, but
for now I am safely back in the hills.

On the book front, I am almost finished with Rushdie's "Midnight's
Children," which is perhaps the most masterfully woven novel I have
yet to encounter.  The story is less fluid and readable, perhaps,
than "The Moor's Last Sigh," but my admiration for the text is
deeper.  I have also picked up a phenomenal collection of essays
edited by Fritjof Capra called "Guiding Business Towards
Sustainability
" that I am finding very inspiring.  One of the

articles is by the CEO of Patagonia who viciously critiques MBA
education as hiding issues of sustainability and promoting the
destructive consumerist philosophies of business that now threatent
the world.  Gives me a nice sense of detachment about teh Berkeley
decision, which has still yet to come.


I have also picked up E.F. Schumaker's "Small is Beautiful" a classic
text on alternative/Buddhist influenced economics. Brilliantly
reasoned and poignant, the text shows how deep a sin it is that the
economics courses at Harvard purvey such a narrow perspective to the
future leaders of the world.  Go Jane for handing out those flyers
outside the Ec 10 lecture hall.